Friday, September 7, 2012

Alesmith Nut Brown Ale Beer Review

Greetings everyone! To drop back into the world of beer reviews, tonight I'll be trying for the first time ever the Nut Brown Ale from one of my favorite breweries, Alesmith. I've had many of Alesmith's offerings and all have been stellar so I expect nothing less from the Nut Brown. Aside from the fact that this beer is new to me (and new to the area, to the best of my knowledge) this beer holds a special place in my heart as I received it off the delivery truck at work and I was the one to find a home for it on our crowded shelves. So in a way, I was destined for this beer.

Alesmith is based in San Diego, CA. Peter Zien founded the brewery in 1995. Alesmith differentiates itself by staying rooted in the homebrewing/amateur brewing scene while making big, bold beers that retain their balance. "Balance" seems to be something of a mantra for the 12 person team at Alesmith. Peter Zien is a Grand Master Level 1 beer judge with the BJCP, the only one of his kind in all of San Diego County. Being rated this highly through the BJCP means that not only has he passed numerous exams; he's also logged an extensive amount of experience in judging both professional and homebrewing contests hosted by the BJCP. The fact that he does this coupled with the fact that most of the Alesmith team seem to be homebrewers turned professionals suggests to me that not only are they deeply committed to craft beer, they also have their finger on the pulse of what is happening in the beer world today. This is what draws me to them.

Alesmith's Nut Brown Ale (previously referred to as Nautical Nut Brown Ale) falls broadly into the category of Brown Ale. If we're going to be sticklers, as the BJCP is, then we'll divide the umbrella category of English Brown Ale into three subtypes: Mild, Southern Brown, and Northern Brown. Milds and southern browns are increasingly rare, even in their home country. Northern Browns are far more common, though still not tremendously so. Most people are familiar with Northern Brown Ales by way of Newcastle, an incredibly available, decent beer that is owned by Heineken, one of the behemoths of the brewing world. Alesmith Nut Brown falls into this subtype, though I hope it is far superior to Newcastle as I've never been particularly impressed. Especially when it skunks out in those insipid clear glass bottles. Anyway, on to the review!

Alesmith bottles all their beer in one of two formats, either the foil topped 750ml champagne bottles or the bottle used here, the more plain 22oz (650ml) bottle, known as a bomber. While the bottle is inherently somewhat less than appealing, Alesmith certainly didn't go out of their way to spruce up the packaging. White block letters on a clear background plainly identify the beer. A little uninspired, for my tastes. Reminds me of how craft beer would look in a communist country. The beer itself pours a rich mahogany, accented by caramel highlights with a darker, murkier brown at the core of the beer. My strong pour reveals a inch or more of beautiful khaki colored head that, in short order, recedes to a quarter inch or so with lacing evident. Appearance: 11/15



The nose is wonderful. Walnut dominates with additional aromas of coffee, toffee, biscuit, and caramel. A faint trace of unmistakable English hops is also present. The hops typical (and most authentic) of the style are Styrian and East Kent Goldings. All in all, a pretty nose. Nose: 24/25

The palate mostly follows the nose. That biscuit aroma takes on more of a toasted quality on the tongue and the hops are more pronounced. That is not to say that the beer is hoppy, just that there are more gentle European hops than I would expect from a style largely defined by its malt bill. The flavors all swirl together and mingle freely, almost like a large gathering of old friends at a party. Much like a party with friends, I know that all those flavors are in there, its just difficult to see them. Rather, I am the wallflower, letting them casually bump into me as they flit in and out of conversations. Nothing distinct and no major transitions, just a solid, easy drinking beer. Palate: 45/50

I rarely drink Brown Ales. When I do, they tend to be variations on the style, like Dogfish Head's Indian Brown or Rogue's Hazelnut Brown Nectar. It is therefore even rarer that I drink such a traditional take on an age old style like this. So every time I do, I am taken aback by how deceptively light and creamy the body is. Also relatively dry, moderate carbonation. Makes for one easy going, laid back beer. Mouthfeel: 9/10

OVERALL: 90/100

So, beers like this remind me of the shortcomings of empiricism. Objectively, this beer is by no means the best beer I've ever had, and my rating reflects that. But I'm giving this beer higher marks than I might otherwise because I can easily imagine my enjoyment of it increasing tenfold if I were to drink it with friends, by a campfire, sharing some burgers, bratwursts, and good cheeses. So keep on keeping on, Nut Brown. Cheers!

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